IN ABRUZZO

Santo Natale
Contributed by Remo Callara

The Tale of The Fishes by Maryann Ruperto
(Maryann's mother's family is from Gamberale, province of Chieti)
In my family Christmas Eve has always been our favorite day of the year. Not just because of the wonderful holiday but because it is our favorite meal of the year, our fish dinner. When I was a girl it was smelts and whiting. Breaded, fried fillets of flounder or cod. Squid in red sauce (tomato sauce) with homemade noodles. A modest amount of shrimp served 2 ways; boiled and served with a cocktail sauce and breaded and fried. Fried oysters. Scallops.

As I grew up, learned to cook, and our financial situation changed (for the better), the menu changed. We added more shrimp. We have shrimp scampi now, along with the shrimp cocktail and fried shrimp. Broiled salmon fillets. Crab cakes. Broiled tuna steaks or mahi-mahi. The perennial fried fillets and oysters. Oysters are my father's favorite and he is usually the only one who will eat them because no one else likes them. We have experimented with new dishes over the years. Fish soups, dishes made with cream sauces, or rolled and stuffed with rice, etc. Some dishes stayed and some we dropped.

Accompanying these, but of much less importance, are a variety of other dishes. Some years we eat roasted potatoes, coated with oil and cooked until they develop a nice crisp crust. Other years, my risotto, made with red and green peppers.

A huge tossed salad with Italian dressing, which seems to never get touched until mom encourages us to eat the beautiful salad she has prepared. Fresh-baked, homemade Italian bread or rolls. Black olives. Cut up pieces of fennel. Roasted red peppers with garlic. Marinated artichoke hearts. A vegetable dish or two. And wine, always lots of wine.

The custom of eating fish on Christmas Eve stems back to the religious belief of abstaining from eating meat on Christmas Eve. Consequently, there is no meat in any form served at our Christmas Eve dinner. We have no set number of fish dishes that we eat. It wasn't a tradition in our family. People often write to me asking how many and what does the number mean? I say, "as many dishes as will fit on the table, and then some." I say that half-jokingly, of course. The number of fish dishes that many family's eat IS a tradition and it varies from family to family, but the number is always based on some religious meaning. For some it is 3, others 4, 5, 7, 9, 12. The number 3 signifies the trinity. 4 fish honors the 4 gospels. 5 signifies the number of wounds that Christ sustained on the cross. For some the number 7 signifies the 7 sacraments, for others, it refers to the 7 utterances that Jesus Christ made from the cross. 9 represents the 9 months of Mary's pregnancy. 12 refers to the number of Christ's followers. These are just a few of the dozens of reasons that people state for choosing the particular number of fish that they eat.

And lest you fool yourself and think that any of this food comes ready-made or frozen, you would be dead wrong. Nothing comes out of my mother's kitchen on Christmas Eve that wasn't lovingly prepared by hand by her or myself. The phrase "ready to serve" doesn't exist in THIS house. The preparation for Christmas Eve dinner begins a few days in advance of the actual holiday, depending upon what day the holiday falls and when stores are open. Just buying the fish is an event in itself as so many others are doing the exact same thing. We always shop for fresh fish at the best fish market in the city, either a day or two before Christmas Eve, then take it home and clean it.

Early on Christmas Eve morning, we start preparing the fish, breading it or whatever is needed, then refrigerate it until we are ready to cook it. Our Christmas Eve dinner is typically eaten around 3pm. The house is fairly calm until an hour or so before dinner time. Then things happen quickly. The kitchen is a flurry of broiling, sauteing, stirring, and whipping of last minute sauces. Numerous electric fry pans and deep fryers are setup in advance. Timers are going.

"How long were those in? 2 minutes? Turn them and keep them in 1 minute more. Cover those. Keep them warm." It's all rush and excitement. Invited guests arriving. Everyone volunteering to help. Someone pours the wine. Another pours the beverages. Everyone having a task to perform. It's like a symphony of cooking. And then the moment we've all awaited. Mom signals that the fish is ready and everything is rushed to the table. After grace is said, we toast each other with wine, saying "Salute!", which means "good health to you", in Italian. A massive passing of dishes occurs for what seems like an eternity. Finally, we settle down and begin to enjoy the great food and companionship of our loved ones. Everyone has a favorite dish that they've looked forward to eating on this night. The conversation is dotted with rave reviews.

Invariably, the conversation will drift to Christmas's past, deceased relatives or those who can't be with us and who are missed so much. Tears will be wiped away quickly, but a little ache remains in our heart. Before you know it one of the kids has told a joke or recounted a story, and the moment has passed. We are on our way to making new memories for another year.

Natale in Castelguidone - Contributed by Rachele Lozzi
I have a Holiday and Christmas Story that my Grandmother Rachele Ficca D'amario would tell me about Christmas in her hamlet of Castelguidone which I would like to share. She told me that it was a tradition to make dolls from corn husks ---- the dolls looking similar to each one of her four children. The doll and an orange or apple would be placed by the fireplace for the children to find on Christmas morning. On Christmas Eve they would go to midnight mass and walk home singing Christmas songs like "Tu Scende delle Stelle". (She would always sing this song starting before Christmas, while we would be preparing for the holiday in our home in Brooklyn ). They would bake biscotti. Some years, depending on their finances, they would have a seafood dinner ---- the seafood being purchased from the vendor who came from Vasto every Wednesday. On New Year's Eve there would be a giant bonfire lit in the piazza to ring in the new year. She would tell me these stories accompanied by her version of the Christmas story of the Baby Jesus' birth complete with dialogue and sound effects down to the braying of the donkey carring the Blessed Virgin and Saint Joseph, the knocking on doors looking for refuge, the rustling of the hay where they finally found shelter and the Jesus was born...She was able to play the Angels speaking to the shepards telling them of the news---A great ONE PERSON SHOW. These are memories I have passed down to my children and grandchildren to keep this precious history alive. These stories and the life we led growing up in Brooklyn in the 40's and 50's contribute to the courage I have acquired to accomplish my own life.
A BLESSED CHRISTMAS TO YOU ALL and A WISH FOR A NEW YEAR AND NEW MILLENIUIM FILLED WITH PEACE AND JOY.

Rachele Lozzi

Pizzelles, contributed by Emilie Sabatini Higgins
Hi Rachel: Your letter about your grandmother's traditions was somewhat like mine and you made note of some very interesting things and brought me back to some endearing memories of Christmas. Though we did not have too much of the material things we had plenty of love, food and the reason we celebrate the birth of Christ. Today I went looking for Biscotti (you mentioned them) and since I could not find them I decided to make my own. I always make pizzelles and give them to my family, friends and neighbors. Now if they don't get them people ask for them. My family eats them as if they were potato chips. Wishing you all good things for the coming year and of course a very happy Christmas

Emilie

Natale in Pianola contributed by L.Tudico

Pianola (AQ)
Every year at Pianola, a small village at 3 km from L'Aquila, at six p.m. on 25 December an impressive living nativity is repeated. The event, which began in 1793, is called «Come a Bethlem» (Like in Bethlehem) and is a theatrical representation of the birth of Christ. The scenery, complete with a Palestinian village of 2,000 years ago in all details, is created in a wonderful natural amphitheatre. Over 300 characters in medieval costumes reproduce the biblical story that led to the birth of Jesus: the creation of man, the original sin, the commandments, the exodus, the Visitation and the Nativity. There is also a musical background to give more pathos to the performance. Year after year this live nativity has attracted more and more people in search of a more authentic way to celebrate Christmas, away from the excesses of the consumer's society. There is also a twinship with the living crib in Crecchio, Umbria, which was the first to be established by San Francesco d'Assisi

Carla T.

Natale in Montorio, Contributed by Elizabeth Lester

Modesto Ca., United States
My mother is from Montorio al Vomano and my childhood was filled with folklore about that area.
Mom said that they really celebrated the gift giving on the Epiphany, January 6. The Befana was the Italian Santa. The child that was not well behaved might have coal put in his Christmas stocking.
Heading the Christmas Eve menu was baccalà. The coveted pastry in the Abruzzi area was caucenetti. Some of the ingredients in the filling of this delicious item were chocolate, chic peas (garbanzo), lemon, honey and rum. These were made into a delicious paste, and this was the center of a rolled out pastry dough whose ingredients included wine, olive oil and flour. Individual turnover like pastries were made. They were then fried, cooled and dusted with powdered sugar. To die for, they were so good. Cookies were also made that were very hard and conveniently shaped so that they could be dunked in wine.
What a heritage, I am so grateful.
Thanks for this wonderful site.
Buon Natale a tutti gli Abruzzesi

Natale in Navelli, contributed by Mario Carmine Bonifacio
Canada
I was born in the town of Navelli, province of Aquila in 1938. Consequently, my earliest memories are those of wartime, strife and hardships until our emigration to Canada in 1948.

Among my earliest memories however, I distinctly remember that Christmas was essentially a religious holiday and thus observed. January 6th (old Christmas) on the other hand is remembered as the time when the Befana (the old woman) distributed gifts. To this day, I have not been able to find out the Befana's origin, but again, I distinctly remember that the gifts were simple and scarce. In my case, an orange or two, other dried fruits and nuts and perhaps a personal item such as a hanky were priceless gifts at that time. Of course, no self respecting boy would pass this period without receiving one or several lumps of coals, to remind them that they had not always been angelic throughout the year.

I have no siblings, but I still have relatives in Navelli. Unfortunately, all my grandparents are dead, my mother died of leukemia and my father is quite old now and I left home at a rather young age so I missed out on learning much of the family history and background. The family names were D'ATTILIO and BONIFACIO on my mother and father's side respectively.
I would appreciate hearing from anyone, anywhere, who knows something about the families. Thank you!

Natale in Chicago, contributed by Vincent Mancini
Hello and thank you for keeping in touch. I remember that when my sister and I were very small in Chicago, we would hang our stocking on the clothes line in the kitchen - for Chicago was VERY cold in the late 30s and early 40s in Dec. for St. Nicolas Day. We would get an orange or tangerine, hard candy, nuts in the shell and a toy. One year there was coal in a stocking and I thought it was for my sister, but she was always good, but I cried for her anyway. I found out it was for me and I cried harder. I miss those simple and beautiful times.

AAAAAahhhh polenta - such sweet memories!!! My father slaves over the stove cooking it very carefully to make sure it's perfect with no clumps. I still go over for dinner when he makes it, usually in the winter. We don't eat it on a board or anything but he tells me that's what they used to do back in Pietracamela, Teramo were he was born. I miss Abruzzo very much, haven't been since '91. I enjoy reading everyone's stories and great info about different sites.

Elda Giardetti

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My parents were born in Sulmona P.Aquila. And I will always remember the lovely stories they would tell us about growing up in the little town. And yes, even here in Melbourne Australia, we still eat (every now and then!) polenta on "la spianature" just like they did way back when.

Rosanna

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I remember my grandfather serving up Polenta on Ash Wednesday Eve, or Fat Tuesday, He and My Grandmother would cover the dining table with these large serving boards and the Whole Family would gather there, Aunts Uncles, cousins, about 25 in all, they would top it with tomato sause and all kinds of meat. everyone would tunnel their way to the middle of the table. They all were from the Ortucchio, Avezzano, province of L'Aquila, Abruzzo.

Richard Chiarilli

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I enjoyed the polenta on the table. As i was growing up my mother would put it on big platters and we would all have to share with each other. Being the youngest I always had the pleasure of sharing with my dad. It was always a race to see who got to the middle of their platters first. The losers had to do the dishes that night. What wonderful memories this website brings back when i tell other italian friends how we ate it in our home they never heard of it. I am glad to know that the sharing and racing was part of my mother and fathers memories that they brouht with them to america.

Judy Liva

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I remember my Father serving polenta on a big platter which we all ate from on occasion. He used to say something like we were sharing food together or family togetherness.. I can't really remember, but it was a very special time My Father's parents and oldest brother came here from Lettomanopello, His name was Frank Toppa, but I have found out after talking to relatives, it was really Toppi.. I have found many people with that surname in the white pages for that town He also used to make a pasta in which he took little pieces of dough and using his thumb shaped them something like a shell. I thought he called them gnocchi but what I see by that name is different. I always look forward to my email from listbot, it brings back a lot of memories.

Frances (Toppa) Moy

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my father Domenic Dandrea was born in villa santa lucia. We had a large family- fifteen in all. My father would cook polenta. It was a yellow corn meal. Very simple, but delicous. He cooked it in a large pot. It was served as though it was a pudding. he didnt use dishes. It was served on top ot the table, he indented the center of the serving and added sauce and a little piece of meat. When we finished eating all he had to do was wipe the table clean. And we were happy for that meal. This was our "happy meal"

lou dandrea

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Polenta! We called it "pooland," and my dad spent what seemed like hours on a Sunday, carefully, slowly, pouring the watered cornmeal into the boiling water so there would be no lumps. The firmed "pooland" was spread on a board and rolled out with what looked like a windowshade roller, then Mom made grooves along the sides and they poured the sausage-based tomato sauce on top. A little Parmesan cheese, and nothing was so delicious! Wonder what our rural Ohio neighbors would have thought...

Emily Webster Love

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